Tongba

Millet and marcha

The drink begins with brown finger millet, known in Nepal as kodo. The grain is cooked, left to cool and mixed with marcha, a traditional starter culture; Wikipedia gives its Limbu name as khesung, and Outlook Traveller notes that marcha is usually made at home by women, each household with its own recipe.

The millet is first kept warm for a few days, then packed into bamboo containers or baskets to ferment for longer. Republica, a Kathmandu daily, describes a second stage of one to two weeks or even a month, and Outlook Traveller says the length depends on the climate and how strong the drink should be.

Hot water and a bamboo straw

Strictly, tongba is the name of the vessel. Traditionally it is a bamboo container, also called a dhungro; Time magazine, writing in 2004, described a cylindrical wooden pot with polished brass bands, and Republica notes that Kathmandu’s tongba places often use aluminium jars instead.

The vessel is filled with fermented millet and topped up with boiling water, then left for a few minutes. The drink is sipped through a thin bamboo straw, known as a pipsing, flattened and pierced at the bottom so that the liquid passes and the grains stay behind. When the liquid runs low, more hot water goes in. According to Republica, each refill is weaker than the last and the flavour usually lasts for three or four fillings.

Tongba is above all a winter drink. Time singled out its warming kick in the cold months, and Republica calls it essentially a winter drink, though it is now served almost all year round.

A sign of respect

Tongba belongs to the Kirati peoples of eastern Nepal, and above all to the Limbu. Wikipedia, Republica and Outlook Traveller all describe an offer of tongba as a sign of respect for a guest; Outlook Traveller adds that turning it down is considered impolite.

It runs through ritual life as well. Arjun Limbu, quoted by Republica, says it has been part of Kirati and Limbu rituals from birth to death, and Wikipedia notes that a newly married Limbu couple share it as part of the wedding ceremony. Outlook Traveller describes it being offered to deities and ancestors at festivals, including Udhauli and Ubhauli, which mark the harvest and planting seasons.

From the eastern hills to Kathmandu

Republica names Taplejung, Dhankuta, Dharan and Itahari in the east among the best-known places for tongba, and notes that Hile Bazaar in Dhankuta greets visitors with a giant tongba jar. In Kathmandu, areas such as Boudha have become well-known for it. Time compared its standing in eastern Nepal to that of Guinness in Ireland and noted that it was slowly gaining popularity beyond the region.

In Emblem World, tongba sits in the Nepal drink collection, where people discover and rate local food, drink and music.